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Come to Paris with Marcy this Fall
We've booked our tickets and are going to Paris in November. Join Marcy and Nandini for a week in Paris. We'll visit the Madeleine Vionnet show at the Louvre, shop for fabric, and explore the hidden nooks and crannies of the City of Light.
I'll show you my secret places, favorite cafes, great fabric/sewing resources and latest discoveries. Paris Tour Info |
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I regularly get calls asking about Paris. 'Where should I go, what should I see?'
I'm an unabashedly passionate about Paris. Love the Eiffel Tower, love going to the top (a great place to begin on a first trip)....but my explorations takes me all over town. Seeking with a designer's eye, sniffing out the exquisite, the 'fait main' (handmade), the odd, the strange....that which is wonderfully whimsically French. Love to stroll down the Champs Elysee, but don't eat there. Keep a tiny camera handy to take photos of the shop windows---window display is an art in Paris, even the cabbies know when the new colors showing. | |
Each Paris tour is different. While I have my favorite haunts to return to, each time I go there are new discoveries. I am biased. Prefer intimate & authentic experiences. Love to find small shops where the designers are at work in the back room, and if I am lucky, will grant a peek into a working studio. | |
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Reading about Paris is a favorite pass-time. Thanks to Sherry Virbila and other friends who keep me posted on various books on Paris. One of my favorites is a new book I wish I had written. Check it out on the link below. | | |
| Link to Marcy's Book List
Link to my list of recommended books on Paris...adding to this all the time.
And check out the ultimate rolling carry-on bag I've just discovered and LOVE. | | | |
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| Paris Tour Info |
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Join Marcy and Diane Ericson for Design Outside the Lines Taos
September 25-29, 2009
There are spaces for the Design Outside the Lines retreat in Taos, September 25-29. Diane and I have been doing these retreats for over 10 years, and the feedback we hear again and again is that people’s work grows, changes and evolves after this experience. Our theme this year is Celebrating Details.
Based on the success of this year’s DOL retreats in Santa Barbara and Sisters, Diane and I are making the focus for Taos around garments, including fitting, inventive construction and re-fashioning existing garments. As a teacher and designer, my own work is ignited after each retreat. We would love to have you join us! |
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| Design Outside the Lines infoWe have spaces in our Taos retreat and would love to have you join us. |
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| Design Outside the Lines info |
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New Postings in Marcy's Closet
Click on the link below to see current sewing projects. |
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| Link to Marcy's Closet |
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Cutting On the Double
Double layer knits and mesh fabrics are showing up in all over the place in ready to wear. Sheer knits, burnout knits (where part of the fabric is sheer or semi-sheer), and knit mesh and tulle can present a 'problem' or a design opportunity.
Check out these garments I've cut double: | | | Double layer tulle in a little cardigan, my adaptation of Vogue 8497, the green version. Copy off the pattern, eliminating the piecing on front and back, and eliminate the uneven hem. Draw in the neck shaping on the front, add seam allowances for the band. The band is just a straight piece sewn to the front edge. On this version I sewed the side seams together, then serged, and did a slit at the bottom. |
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|  |  |  | | | | This fabric has a sheer stripe---so I cut it double in the body and single in the sleeve and single for the little over-vest. I used V8559. I plugged the sleeve from the white shrug into the tank top, an experiment that worked! A single layer of the selvedge is used for the neck and vest edging. |
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|  |  |  | | | Vogue 8559 with the white shrug version made as a vest in a double nylon tulle. |
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Solve the show-thru problem by cutting sheer fabric double.
TRUST me, this is quite simple, and so is the sewing!
Two easy ways to do this are:
1. cut the hem on the fold
2. use the raw/cut edge as the hem
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Cut the body of the garment/t-shirt double, or cut the sleeve double.
Or both.
I love the look of a T with a sheer sleeve and opaque body.
If the sheer for the sleeve is too sheer, cut it double.
Just last week, I saw little A-line skirts made in our nylon mesh knit, cut double, elastic waist, raw/cut edge on the hem. $80. |
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T-Shirt with hem cut on the fold:
A good place to start is a plain t-shirt, front, back, sleeve. You'll need to make the front and back into a 'full pattern'---both left and right sides so you can cut the hem on the fold. My Vogue #8582 adapts well to a basic T-shirt. |
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Determine the finished length, and make a 'full pattern'. Here, I am adapting V8582 so it is a plain t-shirt, eliminating the side drape and shortening it. |
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Mark length and revised side seam on front and back. |
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Fold fabric and place hem markings on the fold. This fabric is wide enough to place both front and back side by side. The hem is placed along the fold. |
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Slip a piece of tracing paper under the revised side seam and trace off the cutting line. This retains the original pattern. |
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Detail showing the traced off cutting line |
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Mark the fold of the hem with a clip. Mark the center front and back neckline with a clip. This makes it easy to line things up as you are sewing the T-shirt. |
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Opened out pieces look like this. Sew the front to the back at the side seams. Then check the fit before going any farther. Line up the necklines, matching the edges and pin together at the shoulder seams and try on, making any adjustments. Some knits tend to stretch at the hip---mine did, and I needed to take it in. Once the fit is good, serge the seams or trim and press. Then sew the shoulder seams and bind the neck edge. Click on the link below to see how I finish a neck edge. After the neck binding is complete, sew in the sleeves.
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| | Link to neck binding tutorial
Scroll down to the bottom of the page to see how to finish off a t-shirt neck edge. | | | |
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The Finished T
The T-shirt body is our Hisako burn out knit. The brown sleeve is our nylon mesh knit, and the wonderful mesh dot is a limited quantity from Marcy's stash. | | | We are offering a limited number of kits' with the fabric to make this t-shirt: 2 yards of Hisako knit for the body, and fat 3/4 yard cuts of each contrasting mesh, which is enough for the sleeve and binding. |
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What Would Nandini Do?
Subject: Vogue 8497 bust adjustment.
I have made a few muslins (cheap knit) of two of the tops (B and C) trying to find a good method to enlarge the bust. I fit a 46 Euro as a rule, but must add at least 3 inches at the bust. No darts work, obviously, and incremental amounts added across seem to end up with the Titanic effect: the shirt hangs from the bust and you look like an ocean liner leaving port. I would appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks, Terry
(via e-mail)
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Dear Terry,
Along with gravity (in full evidence as one reaches a certain age), trying to get T-shirts to fit is one of the downsides (pun intended) of having a large bust. I am speaking from experience here! You do have a few options -- slice, dice, drape and say your prayers...
Making a muslin is definitely the right place to start. Cut the front as one piece to begin - once it fits better you can add the center seam detail. If I were standing in front of you, I would pin and play and something would eventually work. So much of sewing is trial and error - and remember, you have to be smart to sew. Problem solving is part of the fun and challenge of sewing.
You have a little more experimenting and play to do with the pattern. A sewing buddy would be a great help and make the process more fun but you can do it by yourself. Make sure you have your best foundation garments on for the fitting.
I would try a dart or even two - under the arm in the side seam obviously - which should reduce a bit of the Titanic effect. A dart coming from the neck on either side could also be used and incorporated as a design detail. With knits I’ve had great luck using curved darts that are slashed and pressed open to the right side of the fabric.
The center seam on V 8497 can also be used to add width (don’t you love breaking rules?). Because the 5/8” seams are overlapped at the center you have some room to maneuver an extra 1/2”, or more if you add it. I find fusing this seam together with a strip of lightweight fusible web keeps the seam from slipping when I go to sew.
Fabric choice is also important - you want a firm knit with lycra or spandex in it. I recently completed a limited production run of 30 T shirts made from the same pattern using different knits. Every knit sewed up differently and warranted different solutions for fit and finish.
Namaste,
Nandini |
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| Link to Nandini's Website |
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Jacket & Vest Fabric Pairings
Fall means Jackets/Vests. Here are some suggestions for pairing my newest patterns with fabric from our collection. |
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| Vogue 8600 | | This is a super flattering little jacket with LOADS of possibilities. At the Albuquerque ASG show we tried it on lots of figure types and sizes and it looked great on everyone---slims and adds shape in a good way. Dress it up in a brocade, or go casual in cotton. My personal version is the black/ecru striped cotton. I also see it as the ultimate rain jacket with the snap out hood. The collar can lie flat in soft folds or scrunch it up to keep your neck warm. Best of all, the little vest, V8599 nests neatly beneath the jacket, and the necklines are compatible. |
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|  |  |  | | Vogue 8599 | | Sleek with slight shaping, this little vest is a wardrobe workhorse. Make it a focal point in a dramatic fabric and color, or a background piece---in a thin smooth neutral (black, brown, grey...) it would be a great cool weather layering piece that adds a bit of warmth and slims at the same time. Make a casual version in a stretch cotton, you could do a version in a double knit. And the front inset is a natural to do some collage/pattern/color play. |
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Pattern & Fabric Pairings for Pants
Suggestions for your early Fall/late Summer sewing. |
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| Practical AND Chic......Charcoal Denim Pants
Last season I made not one, but TWO pairs of pants in charcoal denim, and wore them all the time. I just saw a version for this fall in RTW: $278. It is my version of a distinctive European style jean-with-a-twist. Great for everyday, for travel, to dress up and down. I knew I was on to something when I nearly wore out the first pair and made (and wore) a second. Our charcoal stretch denim comes from the RTW line 7 For Mankind, whose jeans retail starting around $100 and to up from there. |
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| | .....recommended patterns: |
| | | Vogue 8499 |
| | | Vogue 8561 | | | |
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| Link to ALL Pant Fabrics |
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Getaway to Whidbey Island for an Uncommon B&B experience.
Dreamspace
Offered by Lynn Mizono: Clothing designer & Vogue pattern designer
nurture refresh create
Connect with nature
Discover self
Awaken your creative potential
- 3 miles to the quaint town of Langley,
- 5 minute walk to the beach,
- Whale, eagle and moon watching.
- Relax and just be or Write, design, create art, crafts, music and more Explore your dream life
- Double or single occupancy: $100 per night including breakfast(2 night minimum stay)
- Lunches and dinners available upon request
- Design studio is available for rent by the hour or day
- Design and dream work mentoring also available
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| E-mail Lynn for more info: mizonol@msn.com |
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| Seattle Times article on Lynn Mizono with photos of the house. |
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Link to see main house and setting.
Lynn's home was featured in Metropolitan Home in March 2009. |
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Bookmarked
The internet is a treasure trove of inspiration and information. Here are a few of my current favorite sources which are bookmarked on my computer under the 'cool stuff' category. Do pass on your favorites to me too: marcy@marcytilton.com |
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Head Butler
The Head Butler is one cool guy who refers to himself as a cultural concierge. An author and journalist: contributing editor for Vanity Fair, New York, Architectural Digest, Reader’s Digest, The Los Angeles Times Magazine and Departures, and a contributor to The New Yorker, The New York Times. His books include Airborne: The Triumph and Struggle of Michael Jordan; Highly Confident: The Crime and Punishment of Michael Milken; Pre-Pop Warhol and The Other Guy Blinked (with Roger Enrico). and is now completing a collaboration with Twyla Tharp. The Head Butler mission: to guide smart, busy people through the thicket of mediocre New Stuff and into the clearing of Great Stuff. I love his recommendations on books, movies and 'stuff' (products), and I enjoy his regular newsletters. Marcy says----check it out! |
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The Sartorialist
I always smile when I check in with the Sartorialist, an Aussie fashion guy who travels around taking photos of people who dress with their own sense of style. All ages, men and women. Check it out! |
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Inspiring slide show of the Omo people of Ethiopia
Breathtaking slide show (the photographs took 6 years in the making), of people who adorn themselves with natural beauty. |
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The Sewing Divas
A GREAT blog, full of useful info: (great tutorials on fit, hemming and much more) and a marvelous batch of links. I particularly enjoyed the video segment on the process of making a Chanel dress, including draping the dress and jacket and very cool insights into the house of Lesage for the beading. |
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Erica Bunker REALLY sews up a storm!!
Very appealing blog by a skilled and savvy sewist who has one eye on fashion and another on the patterns. She links RTW designs with available patterns, and then makes them for herself. Great photos. 4 stars! |
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Sewing Fanatic thinks sewing 23 hours a day!
Marvelous information presented by a "fashionista journeying thorough the sewing world trying to make "magic" with each garment I create." ....and she does just that. Honest and true. Love her sheer organza jean jacket. And her research on Michelle Obama's style, clothes and the pattern adaptations of her inauguration day ensemble are fashion history in the making. Great stuff here. |
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Lindsay T blog with great NYC Garment District Info and more....
Lindsay T share a treasure trove of info in the garment district as well as her passion for Chanel and for sewing. |
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Go Chanel
Gotta love this blog with LOTS of sewists in a Chanel jacket sew-along. |
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Le Vrai Chose -- THE REAL Chanel Blog
All that money will buy: the official Chanel blog, full of fantasy and fun. Coco goes to Russia and more. Check it out just to witness what a state of the art blog looks like at this moment in time. |
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