Vogue 8561 Skirt Errata
I've discovered that there is an error on the instructions for the skirt in Vogue 8561.
3 of the pattern pieces are cut on the bias, and because of this, they are cut larger than needed so you can press to remove the stretch, and then re-cut.
Yes, a new concept for most sew-ists, but trust me on this, it works. The people at Vogue have been great in working it out, and are re-printing the guide sheet, which you can obtain by contacting Vogue Customer Services.
I am including the wording changes in the guide sheet here, along with photos to illustrate how this techique is done. If you have read my Threads articles on the bias, or have taken my classes on bias, this will be familiar, but this is the first time (to my knowledge), it has been included in pattern instructions.
I learned this concept from my patternmaking teacher who studied in Paris, and refined it by lots of practice and trial and error. It really works to help stabilize bias, and I use the technique not only when cutting out garments on the bias, but if I am using a bias strip for binding or bias lips on a pocket or bound buttonhole.
You can, just trim away the extra 1" all around the pattern piece and eliminate the pressing to remove the stretch, but I would encourage you to take the extra time to try it---it DOES work!
I'm making a version of this skirt using 7 different fabrics, and will post a photo as soon as it is done.
|To contact Vogue Patterns:
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|This is what the revised guide sheet says:
CUTTING/PRESSING FOR LOWER RIGHT FRONT, MIDDLE FRONT
AND LOWER BACK, WHICH ARE CUT ON THE BIAS.
The lower right front, middle front and lower back are cut on the bias, which can tend to stretch (and get longer at the hem), once sewn.
To prevent this, 1" (2.5cm) extra is added all around pattern pieces #4, #6 and #11.
After removing the pattern pieces and before sewing, press to remove the stretch. Press and steam each piece firmly, gently and evenly from top to bottom, allowing the weight of the iron and a light even tension to take out the stretch.
Mark new cutting lines, 1"(2.5cm) all around pattern tissue #4, #6 and #11.
Transfer and cut fabric along new cutting lines.
The pressing action simulates the effect of wear and gravity, removing the natural tendency of the bias to stretch, and stabilizing the fabric. The completed piece will still have the bounce and drape of bias, but pressing
slows down the tendency to keep growing and stretching. Plenty of residual stretch and fluidity remains.
|The Pattern Pieces Look Like This
Yes, #4, #6 and #11 are intentionally cut one inch bigger all around. That allows enough extra for pressing to remove the stretch and to re-cut while still having a 5/8" seam allowance.
|What to do:|
|1. Cut the pattern piece 'as-is'|
Remove fabric and press to remove the stretch.
Press with the bias using an even tension---it is not a tug of war, but use a firm and even tension, pressing in the direction the piece will hang on the skirt. Press evenly across the entire piece. Some fabrics will stretch more than others.
|3. Mark 1" all around the pattern piece. This is the new cutting line.
Be sure to transfer any markings or notches that could be cut off.
|4. Re-pin and cut on the new cutting line
Depending on your fabric, the piece may have 'grown'--gotten longer and narrower.
Once you've re-cut the piece(s), continue sewing the skirt. The stretch is now removed, the bounce of the bias remains, but the tendency to stretch is minimized.
Sew with the bias piece on the bottom, the straight grain piece on top, it stabilizes the bias and keeps the top layer from growing.