|Double Layer Knits|
|Detail from Shelley's T-Shirt using our Indigo Bois mesh cut double for the body (you can see a slight show through on the under-side). The sleeve uses our Aya mesh cut single. The neck band is a double layer stitched then serged in place, and is sewn with one shoulder seam open which makes this process a lot easier.|
There are so many beautiful sheer and semi sheer knits available, it is a challenge to design and sew with them. Here in the studio Shelley, Nandini and I have been experimenting with these fabrics.
It is easier than you think, but does take a different touch. The results are beautiful. Here is a little tutorial on my experiences with cutting double. Once cut out, the garment goes together quickly. More info to come.
|Cutting a Double Layer |
|Vogue 8582 is the starting point. If you take a look at the line drawing, it is simple to visualize eliminating the side shaping to make the body symmetrical and shorten to your desired length. Makes a GREAT basic T as well as a beautiful fluid tunic T. The body has a flattering semi fitted shape and the sleeve is cut well. |
Determine your finished length. I start with the back, then transfer the new hem length to the front.
TIP: Make the front length 1/2" longer than the back. The front of the body is slightly bigger than the back and this little tweak makes the finished garment hang better. The extra 1/2" is easily eased in when you sew.
Mark the new side seam.
The fabric is folded on the cross grain and the pattern pieces placed so the new hem markings lie on the fold.
Trace the new side seam cutting line.
Mark the hem line with a little snip....this gives a matching reference point when you go to sew the side seam.
Some knits stretch out a bit at the hem/hip area. I had to go back in and nip in the side seam at the hip, so be sure to fit as you sew. The little snip at the hem was helpful in making this adjustment.
The cut out pieces looks like this (shown here, the front).
Sew the side seam first.
Then fold the garment together as it will be worn, pin at armhole/neck and pin the shoulder seams together as it will be sewn and try on.
Adjust fit as needed. No seam finish is required, tho you could serge if desired. I trimmed the side seam to 1/4".
Fuse a 1" strip of fusible knit at the shoulder seam on the wrong side of one of the layers. (this keeps the shoulder from stretching out in wear.
Staystitch front and back necks through both layers
Sew the RIGHT shoulder seam, press toward the back and topstitch.
Apply the neck binding.
Sew the other shoulder seam, press toward back and topstitch.
Sew sleeve (I press the hem in place before sewing the sleeve seam). Press. Hem sleeve.