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Marcy Tilton's Newsletter for Everyday Creatives
August 2008 #27 | | Late August in Southern Oregon where I live is the loveliest time of the year. Along with the warm days, and balmy evenings, the light is shifting, and fall is in the air. In the studio, this is a cue to shift my sewing. It always has seemed a bit at odds, that the weather is still hot, but I have an inner craving for darker colors and a fall palate. I’m putting together a core wardrobe to wear the next couple of months before the really cold weather sets in.
Over the past month, I’ve been working on a handbags for a future Vogue pattern. I’ve loved this project, though my first few attempts were pretty funky. It took some practice, (like noodling out how to set a pocket and sew in a zipper all in one), and figuring out what tools and interfacings worked best, but after a few so-so projects things smoothed out and the process as well as the results are very fun and satisfying. I sent the final samples, patterns and instructions off to Vogue this week---the pattern will be released in April 2009, but in the meantime I am celebrating the completion of this project. The artist Beatrice Wood spoke of how she would give her studio a good cleaning after sending a show of her ceramics out to a gallery. I share that ritual, clearing the decks for the next work that wants/needs space to emerge. By creating the outer space, I also make room inside for new growth.
My friend Martha Ringer is an expert and genius in the field of
completion...she was a guest at a DOL retreat in Santa Barbara.
Done. Complete. Finished. is the title of her new book, which you can buy online or download as a pdf. If you are a multi-tasking diva, you'll want to have a copy to hold in your hand and read as an inspiration and reminder. It is a gem. This wise and lovely little book is filled with gentle wisdom, and is impacting my own (sometimes frenetic) work style. I recommend it from my heart. | | Purchase Done. Complete. Finished. | | | |
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|  | | | | IF YOU ONLY MAKE ONE THING THIS MONTH........take a cue from your own wardrobe, and sew a piece from a pattern you've tested, in a color that goes with existing garments and in a fabric that you know you will love to work with and wear. Choose a color palate for this season and stick to it. Last Fall & Winter I used brown and black. This year I'm adding more grey. Don't skimp on your design process, take the time to play with the fabric, experiment with design techniques and surface design on scraps, and most importantly... | TRUST YOUR OWN INTUITIVE Style Allow your materials and ideas to direct your process more than the instruction sheet. You don't have to know everything all at once. Most of my projects start out slowly and go through a 'geeky teenager' stage before things finally come together. My working style is to dive deeply into one thing over a period of time---most recently the bags. But I also keep a number of different project going at the same time, so I used my bag scraps to make sachets using the lavender I've been harvesting. These little projects prime the pump for the more serious ones, for my creative juices flow most freely when I am making things.
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| Wishing you a creative and satisfying September,
Marcy Tilton |
| | | ArtBarn Fall Classes |
| | The T-Transformed Workshop
With Nandini (Katherine Tilton)
Saturday, September 6, 10-4:30
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Class participants at the end of the day, wearing their Transformed T's. |
Transform an ordinary t-shirt or sweatshirt into something fun and fabulous! Learn and practice Nandini’s simple techniques for creating something extraordinary from the ordinary. You will learn techniques for simple surface design, adding bias bands, trims, contrast sleeves, darts, zippers, quick fits and more. You will have time to practice some of these techniques hands-on.
Bring lunch & a snack, Beverages provided. |
| | | T-Transformed Class Registration & Info |
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| | | | Fall Studio Days Retreat with Marcy & Nandini
October 13 - 17
| | Participants deeply focused on their process during our August Studio Days retreat. |
We are delighted to a 4-day hands-on workshop with Tilton sisters, Marcy and Nandini.
NOT limited to 'advanced' skills - a willingness to learn is the most important thing. All skill levels welcome.
This is a time to develop your own work at your own pace with your own choice of projects while having Nandini & Marcy's guidance and encouragement. Our theme is Collaboration---something we do in our own work, and want to share with you. These workshops are small and intimate --- a creative community where you will experience hands-on designing, inventing and moving to the next level in your work. |
| | Fall Studio Days Retreat Registration & Info |
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| | With Regrets
ArtBarn September 13 Tea Party Cancelled
Our local ASG group scheduled another event on the same day, so we are canceling our September 13 Tea Party. |
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| | DESIGN OUTSIDE THE LINES 2009
February 8-12, Santa Barbara, California
June 1-5, Sisters, Oregon
September 25-29, Taos, New Mexico |
| | Click for Design Outside the Lines general info | | | | Design Outside the Lines Detailed info & Locations | | |
| T-Shirt Update
Click on the link below
to see the two COMPLETED T-shirts
mentioned in last month's newsletter,
with how-to-info on customizing
the pattern and adding a bit of silk screening.
T-Shirt Update |
| | Making Marks with Silk Screening
There are many ways to integrate silk screening into your designs. Here I started with 1/4 yard cuts of a grouping of jewel toned silks and spent the day playing with color and design. I collected a group of screens and a palate of paints and then the fun began! After the paint had dried, I punched things out with metallic foil---foiling on top of the paint. You can see the results of my 'yardage' at left. Some of the fabric was used for a bag for an upcoming Vogue pattern. (Out in Spring 2009). I cut bias lengths of the scraps and stitched them onto a piece of washed silk taffeta for a scarf. See the finished scarf at right.
| Links to favorite screens used in this project | | |
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| | | | | | I cut bias lengths of the scraps and stitched them onto a piece of washed silk taffeta (about 8" x 39") for a scarf that will light up my black and brown basic wardrobe all season long. |
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| | | Scarf is lined to edge with silk. There is a large bound buttonhole to hold the scarf in place, and bits of the bias strips are folded and sewn in at the short edge. |
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| Sneak Peek at Marcy's new Jacket Pattern Vogue 8358
Coming in October! When I develop a pattern, I give it a studio name. This was dubbed the Euro-Member's-Only jacket. It looked great on all figures. If you are tall, make the longer version. Multiple side seam darting adds sculptural shaping to the body and sleeves, slims the hips and you'll love the clever (and simple to sew), built in pocket. The front is lined to the edge for a clean easy finish. I've made versions in linen, cashmere, padded silk and stretch cotton. This is the perfect toss-on jacket to dress down with jeans or dress up with tailored pants. | Linen version uses 'cardiac' stitch topstitching and features velcro closures. | |
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| | | | | Black cashmere (front lining is striped dupioni) with hand sewn super-sized snap closures from Diane Ericson. | | Super-Sized Snaps | |
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| | | | | Threads version, done in cotton stretch poplin, for a silk screening article in the October/November 2008 issue. | |
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| | FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC
FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC FABRIC
New fabrics AND a fabric sale! |
| | | MARCY'S FABRIC COLLECTION | has new fabrics for fall and a SALE on many more.
I choose fabric that has beauty and character
as well as being practical in your wardrobe.
That means a lot of fabric that works for
pants, jackets/vests and T-shirts. I tend
to choose neutral colors in textures that
drape and flatter (translates to slimming).
These are the kinds of fabrics I reach for
first when I want to make something I KNOW
I will wear, and that will work with the
rest of the things I already own. |
| Pantone Color System
We now have the Pantone Color Fan system in our office so if you want a more precise idea of the color of a fabric, don't hesitate to call or e-mail us. I do my best to photograph the fabric color accurately, but colors vary from one computer monitor to another. A customer made this suggestion, telling me that as more people (diehard fabric collectors) are buying fabric on the internet, they own the color fans themselves. As new fabric comes in, we'll list the Pantone numbers with the item, it didn't happen in time for this newsletter. |
| | Marcy suggests these Pattern & Fabric Pairings........... |
| | 1. Use the Grey Gardens for a jacket,vest or pant---this is a gorgeous basic fall color. Dress it down in Sandra Betzina's sleek jean jacket, Vogue 1036. Take a cue from Paris designers and use cool large sew-in snaps Our deep rich red rayon knit is a good color match with this combo...I suggest Sandra's great looking T with interesting faux bolero detailing.Vogue 2980 | | | | | |
| 3. Grey is one of this season's signature colors. Make a simple little jacket or vest in Vogue 8430 in the jacquard so both sides show. I'd use the same guidelines for construction as in the Raggety Linen Vest Finish seams with topstitching and the outer edge with a line of stitching 1/4" from the edge, then wash on gentle and toss in the drier for a few minutes so the edges open up. Trim any errant threads. Wear with Vogue 8497 view B. I'd top stitch in black, add some discreet black silk screening and trims to tie it all together, and wear with pant Vogue 8397 , view A in our foolproof black microfiber stretch woven. | | Pair a t-shirt in slate grey rayon knit with a jacket in black/grey stretch jacquard and your favorite black pant or skirt |
Slate Grey Rayon-Lycra Knit | | | Black-Grey Stretch Cotton Jacquard | |
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| | | | 2. Linen is so perfect for fall in warm climates. Use the Coffee Bean linen for a slouchy little unlined jacket in Vogue 8454. See Marcy's version in a similar brown linen. Wear it with pant Vogue 8499 or Vogue 8399 . Click on the following link to see Marcy's version in Sumac linen.Make a simple little tank to wear beneath the linen jacket using our Rich Brown rayon/lycra---the color is a good blend with both linens.
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| | 4. Go for the elegant simplicity of a soft pant and t-shirt in head to toe one color dressing. Go for brown, fashionistas are calling brown and grey the new black. Try Sandra Betzina's new t-shirt Vogue 1049 paired with no side seam pant with hem detailing Vogue 8397, view C. | | |
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| | | | | | 6. Every woman needs a few red pieces in her wardrobe. I recommend Vogue 8429 in view A or B....but make it as a shirt. (I have seen linen versions of this style in high end shops at $300-$600 !) Adjustments I'd consider are: taper the sleeves and shape the body to your figure. Wear with a basic T like Vogue 8151, view B, and skirt (or pant),Vogue 8499 in the lovely black jacquard. | | | NEW Cross Dyed Linen: Brick | | | | | | | |
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| | | | | 7. I love this trio for a modern interpretation of jeans, a black t-shirt and black jacket....an urban/country/casual 'uniform' that can take you anywhere from the farmer's market to Paris. I'm making the jacket in my new pattern Vogue 8358 (out October 1, see above for a preview). I will customize Vogue 8397, changing the front neck and edge into a V instead of the curve shown on the pattern. I rarely wear jeans, but this black/dark blue damask denim is so beautiful, I am using it for my own version of jeans, in Vogue 8499, love the deep pockets and having a practical yet chic pant I can wear every day and not wince at wiping my hands on the fabric. | | | | | | | | | |
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| InnerParis:
NEW TOUR January 5-13
| | | | Sale sign in a shop in the Place de Vosges says:
My Darling,
I am on my way to Paris for the most exciting time of the year. The Paris Sales!!! I have taken your credit cards. I thank you. Kiss you. Love you. Penny |
PARIS ON SALE
LE SHOPPING is literally everywhere in Paris. One of the most important things to know about shopping in Paris is that twice a year, (in January and June) everything in the city goes on sale (by government mandate!). We will arrive in time for the start of the sales. Yes, fabric too! Come to add a Parisian touch to your wardrobe and your stash, and to soak in the atmosphere of museums, food and cafe life. January sales are a national event. Stores celebrate and the all the shops and stores re-do the windows and re-organize the stock. Even if I don't buy, I come back home to my own creative work with a fresh perspective and chock full of ideas.
FAIT A MAIN is French for 'made by hand.' One of the many things I love about visiting Paris is the opportunity to see so many things that are hand made. I stumbled on a tiny shop in the Marais, where the owner/designer makes and sells wonderful beaded jewelry using the Luneville hook.
HIGHLIGHTS- Visit to the Musee de la Mode et du Textile to see the Sonia Rykiel exhibition
- Visit to the Fondation Yves St. Laurent museum located in the famous St. Laurent building.
- Visit to a famous vintage couture shop.
- Explore the Marais, the Left Bank, the Monmartre fabric district, and our 'neighborhood'which is walking distance from the Louvre, the Palais Royale and the grand department stores of Paris.
- Look At Paris clothes, for inspiration and shopping.
- Visits to exquisite ‘merceries’ (French notions shops), tucked-away shops and inviting passages.
- Visit to a small flea market and ‘Marche Biologique’ --- organic market on Sunday morning.
- Dining and conversation in cafes and restaurants ranging from well known to small out of the way spots.
- All this and more, in discovering the beauty and magic of Paris in the company of kindred spirits.
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InnerParis January Tour Info
Explore the City of Light with a designer-maker's perspective with Marcy and her sister Nandini (Katherine Tilton) and a small group of kindred spirits.
Highlights include visiting the just opened Sonia Rykiel exhibition at the Musee de la Textile et de la Mode (Textile and Fashion Museum at the Louvre), where the shows are over the top. We'll explore a different part of town each day. Paris is a walking city, and after a few days you will begin to get the feel for getting around. Of course (bien sur), we'll shop for fabric, and one day we head up to the Montmartre district, also known as Amelie's Paris and explore the fabric stores around the Marche St. Pierre where the streets are lined with fabric stores large and small and you can find fabulous fabrics at every price. We'll also visit other fabric stores and 'merceries' all over town. Parisians still sew, and every neighborhood has its own fabric, button and yarn resources, some very luxe and others humble and down to earth.
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| Pant Tissue Fitting Tutorial| | | | The paper pattern is adjusted so it is large enough to go around at the fullest hip and the crotch length measurement has been compared with the pattern and adjusted as needed. |
Pant fitting does not have to be frustrating. Here are a practical tips I use for myself and with students. Once you have made sure the paper pattern is large enough to go around, and that the crotch length is close to what you want, you can pin the pattern tissue together and try it
on,just as you would try on a pair of pants in the store.
The Process is Simple and Logical- Choose your pattern by your fullest hip measurement.
- Compare your hip measurement to the pattern by measuring at the hip line. Make allowances for ease---usually at least 3-4 inches
- Measure your stride by tying a piece of elastic around your waist. Use a tape measure and run in from front waist to back waist and through your legs---just like the crotch seam in a pair of pants. Adjust the tape measure so it 'fits' the way you prefer your pants to fit, and record that measurement.
- Measure the pant pattern from front waist to back waist along the seam line (without seam allowances) and compare to your measurement. If there is a difference, divide by 2 and lengthen or shorten at both front and back. Most patterns provide a lengthen/shorten line for this purpose.
- To prevent the tissue from tearing in the crotch, reinforce the curved area seam allowances with tape and clip to the stitching line every half inch or so.
- Pin the pattern together along the stitching line.
- Pin a piece of 1" elastic at your waist. This will indicate your waistline and you can position the pattern waistline under the elastic as shown.
- I use a large hand mirror along with a full length mirror to check the fit. (If you have a sewing friend to assist, all the better!!).
- Settle the pant on your body and look for possible adjustments.
- Mark your waistline by marking with a sharpie (or a line of pins) along the bottom of the elastic.
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Make any adjustments that show up in tissue fitting. Continue the fitting process as you sew, marking any changes on your pattern. Once you have a pant pattern that works, it is no longer necessary to tissue fit, but IS necessary to fit as you sew as every fabric will respond differently. |
| SALE on Groom Bags
I'm going back to Paris soon, so the GROOM bags and billfolds in stock are on sale at very good prices. |
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| | | Shelley's Fall Bracelets | | |
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| | Marcy's Schedule | | 2008- September 25-29: Design Outside the Lines Taos
- October 13-17: Studio Days Workshop with Nandini, ArtBarn, Takilma, Oregon
- November 16 - 25 InnerParis Tour: Full (call if you want to be on a waiting list)
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| | | | 2009- January 5- 13: InnerParis Tour: Le Shopping for the annual Paris sales
- February 8 - 12: Design Outside the Lines Santa Barbara
- February 26 - March 1: Sewing Expo, Puyallup Washington
- April 18-19: Fresno Fiber Arts
- June 1 - 5: Design Outside the Lines: Sisters, Oregon
- July: American Sewing Guild Conference: Albuquerque
- Spring/Summer 2009: ArtBarn Events to be announced
- September 25 - 29: Design Outside the Lines Taos
- InnerParis Tour: Dates to be announced.
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