Marcy Tilton's Newsletter #18 for Everyday Creatives
This fall I am traveling:
to the Bay Area for the Canada College Artistry in Fashion designer sale,
to the Twin Cities for the Original Sewing Expo and a special class and sale with my sister Nandini
and then to Paris.
Join me at any of these events, and stay tuned for a creative and exciting 2008!
Sewing and designing clothes is my passion and there is a long tradition of passing on know-how from one to another.
This newsletter is part of that tradition.
As a teacher-entrepreneur, I appreciate your support and feedback.
Happy Fall Creating!
|Topics in this Newsletter include;|
- Marcy's Fall and Winter Schedule
- Join me in Paris in January
- Fall in the Studio: Jackets Rule!
- New Fabrics
- Foolproof Fabrics
- New Vogue Patterns
- New Groom Bags
- Nandini's Arty T's
- Design Outside the Lines 2008
- Cool Links
- Letters & Feedback
|Please feel free to pass this newsletter on to friends. To sign up for a newsletter or to change your e-mail or remove your name from this list go to Newsletter on the navigation bar of this website or click on|
|Marcy's Fall Schedule|
|Saturday, October 20, 10-5
Designer show and sale at Canada College, Redwood City, CA
This one day show is worth attending...well worth coming to the Bay Area for the weekend. Over 60 top designers come from all over California and beyond for this one day event, clothing, jewelry, accessories and more. It is a fundraiser for the Canada College Fashion Design department and there is a marvelous fashion show at 1 pm.
I'll be there with my silk screens, Groom bags and a rack of sample garments. I rarely sell my clothing, but put together grouping of samples from Vogue pattern prototypes and class demo items for sale.
My sister, Nandini, will be there with her line of fabulous T-shirts, children's garments and accessories.
|Artistry In Fashion Designer Sale Information|
|Original Sewing and Quilt Expo Minneapolis, MN
November 8, 9 & 10
Sheraton Bloomington Hotel
Marcy and Nandini will have a vendor booth, and both of us will be teaching classes at this event.
Where Did You Get That T-Shirt?
10 Piece Core Wardrobe
On The Surface: The Magic of Silkscreening
|Original Sewing and Quilt Show Information|
|Conversation, Collaboration and Clothes: Class, Trunk Show and Sale
With Marcy Tilton and Nandini-Katherine Tilton
Saturday, November 17th, 2007
Unity Church-Unitarian Parish Hall,
732 Holly Avenue, St Paul MN 55102
|Join us for a playful, entertaining and inspiring morning including a trunk show of original garments, plus Marcy‚Äôs designs for Vogue. You‚Äôll gain insights into surface design and construction techniques, and see how Marcy and Katherine/Nandini interpret personal style. Share their unique collaborative creative process.
Door opens at 9:30AM,
Conversation: 10AM to Noon.
Tickets required for morning conversation.
Tickets $10 (before 11/10/07) $15 (after 11/10/07)
Trunk show and sale open to the public, no charge: 12:30 to 2:00PM.
For more information call 541-592-2969 or 612-247-6285.
|Register for St. Paul Class|
|Come to Paris with Marcy January 6-14, 2008
Hidden Paris: Design, Fashion, Art, Cuisine
8 magical, inspring and art-ful days in Paris
January 6-14, 2008
Semi annual Paris sales begin on January 9!!
Visit to the Musee de la Mode et du Textile at the Louvre.
6-day museum pass.
Brunch on arrival day.
Lunch at the top of the Pompidou Museum.
An exceptional celebration dinner.¬†
Explore the Marais and the fabulous boutiques of the Left Bank.
Draping demonstration with Shermane.
The Paris Makeover!! Take advantage of Marcy and Shermane's collective fashion eye
for a Paris wardrobe upgrade and personal style ‚Äòfluffing‚Äô.
Fabric shopping,¬†OF COURSE.
Visits to exquisite accessories, jewelry and perfume¬†boutiques, tucked-away galleries and inviting glass-roofed passages.
Dining and conversation in cafes and restaurants
Delicious breakfasts, delivered to your room.
Visit to a small flea market. (Shermane spotted Emmanuel Ungaro there one Sunday morning buying lace.)
All this and more, in discovering the beauty and magic of "Hidden Paris" in the company of kindred spirits.
|HiddenParis Tour Information|
|HiddenParis Registration Info and Photos of Previous Tours|
|Paris changed the way I see design and upped the ante on my appreciation for the art of living.
I inhabit my home and studio differently, and I am a better designer (and cook!) as a result of absorbing the atmosphere.
My wardrobe changed---more minimal with a fresh eye for shape and an renewed appreciation for being female.
We will be a small intimate group in January,
do join me and my friend and colleague Shermane Fouche and see Paris with an insider's perspective.
You'll love the experience and the long lasting effects.
|Shopping for fabric in Montmartre|
|Soaking in the Impressionists at the Musee D'Orsay|
|The pleasure of pausing in a sidewalk Cafe |
|Some Favorite Books on Paris
The Paris Map Guide is my favorite map of Paris, the only one I want to carry. I've bought and discarded many, and tho I pick up the freebies around town, this is the one I rely upon. Great size, fits in my bag, the pages are a manageable size, excellent organization and easy to read. 5 stars!!!
Barrie Kelper's Collected Traveler series if books are all excellent. The Collected Traveler Paris book is one to save for the journey, read it on the plane and while you are there. Same thing goes for the Traveler's Tales series.
Adam Gopnik is one of our finest contemporary writers who lived in Paris and this is a memoir of his love story with the city of light. I re-read Paris to the Moon each time I head for Paris
Eric Maisel writes some of the best books on Creativity....and his A Writer's Paris changed my life. Loved it, read it, rented an apartment and stayed for 2 months, can't wait to go and 'live' in Paris for an extended time again!
Entre Nous by Debra Ollivier is just plain fun. A smattering of fashion advise, culinary tips, (recipes for food as well as for a successful marriage!) and historical tidbits about famous French women. I lapped it up and sent off to Netflix for her recommended French films. Tres amusant!
Thoughts on creating distinctive jackets & vests, raincoats, winter coats, and sweatery things for indoors and out
For most of the summer I worked on 2 new Vogue patterns for spring 2008. One is a grouping of 3 new T-Shirts, the other pattern is a skirt and pant I refer to as Euro design. As soon as this body of work/play went off to New York, I moved on to developing the design for a jacket for Fall 2008, and then fall 2007 arrived, so I have jackets galore on the design table in the studio
Oregon has been cold and wet, and I write, I am sipping a cup of tea in front of the comfort of a fire in the woodstove contmplating a new jacket. One of my fall rituals is designing and making a new jacket or vest for the season ahead. A toss over everything jacket or vest is often the one garment you wear the most to work or play.....and what the world sees you wearing. Choosing just the right color, fabric, shape and length can pull your entire cool weather wardrobe together. This fall I am looking for fabrics that are similar to those I saw used in fine ready to wear in Paris last year. Neutral colors in fabrics with a bit of stretch, felted wools and beefy microfibers.
|I was thrilled to hear that this pattern is one of Vogue's current best sellers!
Without a doubt, the simplest pattern I've ever done. It has a lovely slouchy cut, and if you make it in a felted wool, without any embellishment, it goes together in a snap!! Part sweater, part jacket depending on the weight of the fabric you use. Consider lengthening it to fingertip or full length as a coat. A friend made a fabulous vest by eliminating the sleeves. If you make it in a soft sweater knit or unfelted jersey it can work as an indoor sweatery layer. Made in a beefy felted or boiled wool, it is an outdoor jacket.
|Click to buy pattern from Vogue|
|Layering is the Key
Plan your pieces so they layer together. You can work from the inside out or the outside in. Colors, shape, sleeves/armhole and length all fit together. In old Japan, layering kimonos was a minor art form. Even though everyone wore the same basic shape garment, the way the layers blend together became an expression of personal style and distinction.
|Last winter I made this felted wool vest as a prototype for Vogue 8399. This is the garment I wear at home working in the studio. NOT precious, I wear it with jeans, it stands up to hauling in firewood, cooking and layers under my standard Oregon issue rain jacket for walking the dogs in a downpour.
A lightweight black vest is a wardrobe basic for me---but always must have an interesting texture or detailing to make it distinctive.
|My formula is: 1, 2, 3.......
1. Outerwear Jacket/Coat/Raincoat
These 3 pieces must nest together, slide on easily and the shape must work with your pants and skirts. The colors must work together too. In my sewing and wardrobing this is an ongoing process I add to and subtract from every year. When I put my clothes away at the end of the season I suss out what I wish I had made/bought and that item goes to the top of the sewing/buying list for the next season. I go over this plan at the beginning of the cool weather season when I pull clothes and fabric out of storage.
You don‚Äôt have to make every element. I am inspired by my friend Diane Ericson who revamps garments she finds in thrift stores. When we were together recently her toss over jacket was a blue linen shirt-jacket she had re-fashioned so it looked like very expensive ready to wear (Miyake meets Ralph Lauren)----we were travelling/teaching in New Mexico, and it worked over all her tops, pants and skirts.
Might be 3 different patterns, or, the same pattern tweaked to nest together like those Russian easter egg dolls.
|Coat, Jacket and Vest Pattern Suggestions
|1. Coat that goes over everything: raincoat, winter coat, duster....|
Pattern suggestions: ReVisions Heartfelt Coat, Vogue 2868, V 7746 (made fingertip length), V. 8163, V. 8344, V 2757 (out of print) V 8430 lengthened as a coat
|Vogue 8430. I'm going to make this jacket into a raincoat by using a larger size and cutting it longer. Stay tuned! |
|Click to see the Heartfelt Coat|
|Click to see V 8163
I've seen this coat on Sandra Betzina and it has great lines.
|Click to see V 8344
This could be a great fast and easy DIY raincoat that would fold flat for travel. I search out rainwear fabrics in every fabric store, one of the few fabrics I stockpile.
|2. Deliberately Different Distinctive Jacket|
Distinctive jacket that layers under the coat, over the vest and cardigan.
|My favorite distinctive jacket, shirt jacket (even could be a vest). Will be released in the upcoming holiday Vogue catalog. I've made at least 10 in fabrics from silk velvet as shown here, to dressed down knits. Has great slimming lines with cool exposed (or not) darts.|
pattern suggestions: V 8399, ReVisions Santa Cruz, V. 7746
Sleek cardigan that goes over the t-shirts and under the jacket or vest
pattern suggestions: V 8151 as cardigan, Kwik Sew 2292 (love an all in one sleeve, scale to you and your fabric), Kwik Sew 2875
Shirt jacket --- unined jacket, jean jacket, a Miyake-esque shirt or your version of a classic shirt that dresses down everything, works with the t-shirts and tops---ideal if the vest slips under this jacket and this jacket layers under the coat
Pattern suggestions: V2952 (unlined), V 2954,V2813, V 7610, V8399
|Click to see other versions of the new jacket|
|Click to see Miyake jacket V2952|
|Miyake Details & Inspirations for Jackets, Vests, Coats|
- Pockets that are as finished on the outside as on the inside
- Clean turned and stitched hems that are cut on the straight of grain
- Mitered corners: do not trim away the corner, it weights the hem
- Back overlay---just add a separate piece on the back of a jacket or coat, replicate the original pattern back. Hem separately so it hangs free---a natural for raincoats
- Add a deep back pleat: knife pleats, box pleats, always with a slightly oversized proportion and innovative/unique stitching design
- Precision stitching: Do like vintage Miyake and use a small stitch length
- Impeccable French seams & flat felled seams: so the garments are as finished on the outside as on the inside.
- Choose fabrics that can be used on both sides
- On my fall sewing list: Make a Miyake-esque raincoat
|New Collection of Fall Fabrics
I'm picking up a limited collection of fabrics---the sort I choose for my own projects and offering them for sale on the website as well as at sewing shows and my teaching venues. Things move quickly, so if you want a swatch, send an e-mail or give a call during office hours: 541-592-2969.
|Click to see new collection of fabrics including Miyake inspirations
New fabrics are coming in all the time, so come back to this page often. We include swatches of knits and fabrics on hand with CDs and orders over $50.
What IS a FOOLPROOF FABRIC?
A foolproof fabric is one that is sure to be successful in a particular garment. In the fashion industry, some fabrics are designated 'bottom weight' (pants and skirts), others 'top weight' (could mean jackets or shirts depending on the fabric). Sounds pretty obvious, but haven't we all made the fatal mistake of making a garment where the fabric is not right for the style.
I am gathering a collection of fabrics for sale --- from designers via a few experienced fabric buyers who know what I seek.
Here are a few examples of foolproof fabric currently on the website:
|At this time we have a grouping of black microfiber knits that are ideal for soft comfortable (and slimming) pants. Ideal for any of the styles in V8397.|
|These cotton/lycra t-shirt knits are easy to work with and the colors hold up in the laundry. Here is a reply to a question that just came to me:
'Good morning Marcy,
I recently purchased some of your c/l knits and want to know if you wash them before cutting. Christine Jonson prefers not but I want your opinion. I have your t-shirt book and do not recall you commenting on this issue.'
'I pre-wash almost everything, especially knits. Toss in washer and drier.....but after making my hand made T's I wash gentle in the machine and then air dry....the drier wears things out much faster than normal wear and tear.'
|Super-soft and snuggly, and with good drape. Perfect for a cool weather basic but not boring T-shirt of your own design. Cotton-lycra but soft as cashmere.|
|New GROOM Bags|
|Clone Ergonomic Microfiber Backpack. Special Order|
Dramatic and practical, one of the secrets of chic women all over the world: the Groom supple microfiber Clone backpack. Has front zipper pocket, perfectly placed cell phone pocket on the front strap, inside zipper Dimensions: 19" x 12"
Available by special order. All special orders must be prepaid and cannot be returned.
Linden (soft mossy acid green)
Melon (soft clear orange)
|Tram Microfiber Bag: Special Order in your color choice|
Dramatic and practical, one of the secrets of chic women all over the world: the Groom microfiber Tram shoulder bag. Has front zipper pockets, double handles, secure closing zipper, inside zipper pocket and inside key hook. Available by special order in Black, Brown, Wine Red, Taupe, Tilleul (soft acid green) Allow 4-6 weeks for special orders. Dimensions: 10.5" x 16.5"
|Tram Leather Bag: Special Order in your color choice|
Dramatic and practical, one of the secrets of chic women all over the world: the Groom supple pebble leather Tram shoulder bag. Has front zipper pockets, double handles, secure closing zipper, inside zipper pocket and inside key hook. Available by special order in Black, Brown, and Orange (see billfolds for colors). Allow 4-6 weeks for special orders. Dimensions: 10.5" x 16.5"
|Click here to see the Groom Collection|
|Artful T-Shirts by Nandini
Too busy to sew? Nandini has been inventing her own brand of the Art-ful T-shirt.
Click on the link below, you might just want to buy one for yourself or a gift.
|Link to Nandini's Artful T's|
|Design Outside the Lines 2008
Each location provides a unique experience. Marcy and Diane use a different theme as the source of inspiration for each retreat. Past themes have included: Change, What do You Want? Home and Simplify. This year's theme is bel o'cchio, an Italian word that literally means, 'good eye', and at each retreat, our goal is to develop our individual and collective design eye.
|February 3 - 7, 2008
La Casa de Maria, Santa Barbara, California
La Casa at El Bosque offers a spacious, private location on 25 acres of oaks, fruit trees meadows and gardens in the Montecito hills; like being on a secluded estate with inviting studios and gourmet meals.
Design focus is on garments---bringing new inspiration into your work & exploring the creative aspects of creating with fabrics and fibers, including
surface design and inventive techniques.
|June 2-6, 2008
Five Pines Lodge, Sisters, Oregon
This brand new lodge and conference center is in Sisters, Oregon, home of the famous Quilt festival. The conference center was built with quilters in mind as Sisters hosts many classes and workshops throughout the year. This big airy well lit room has a big stone fireplace and plenty of space to set up a
The guest rooms are amazing, double or single (or even triple occupancy) in charming craftsman cottages nestled into a pine forested meadow with wild flowers and stream. Rooms feature hand crafted Amish furniture, soaking tubs filled by a waterfall from the ceiling, tile/stone fireplaces, 42 inch plasma tv, wireless internet (you can sit in the tub and watch the fire or the telly.
On site is the exquisite Shibui Spa. Sisters Athletic club is on the grounds too--lodge guests have full use of their facilities. There is even an upscale movie theatre which looks like an old red barn, right on the grounds featuring current releases.
By the time we are there, the full scale restaurant will be in full
swing. Oh...and wine and cheese each afternoon too.
Mabel Dodge Luhan House, Taos, New Mexico
Mabel Dodge Luhan house is an historic adobe home and intimate conference center, a short walk from Taos' central plaza. Built in 1918 by Mabel Dodge Luhan, it has attracted great artists such as Georgia O'Keefe and D. H. Lawrence. Design Outside the Lines takes a different perspective for this retreat, using the natural beauty of the environment and the inspiration of generations of southwest artists and artisans. We will bring less, (finding supplies in the 2 wonderful local fabric stores),work smaller, fine tune details and experiment with drawing, hand work and collage. Design focus is on bringing new inspiration into your work using 3 small projects.
|Design Outside the Lines Details|
|Register for Design Outside the Lines|
|Link to Shermane's Paris blog|
|Click to link to Laura Foster Nicholson's blog
Laura Foster Nicholson is a fine tapestry weaver who also designs a line of fabulous ribbons. Her blog is full of inspiration.
|Link to Sandy Ericson's newsletter and site
If you like my newsletter, you'll like Sandy Ericson's too. Sandy was one of the best teachers at The Sewing Workshop, and continues to teach via her website and classes. She is an expert on the work of Madeline Vionnet and the bias cut as well as vintage patterns and design. GREAT info here!
|Click to see an amazing drawing from the inside out|
|Click for Fashion Incubator Blog
This blog is aimed at small production clothing designers-producers and is chock full of highly opinionated and very practical information that I find interesting.
|Mailbox- Letters and Feedback
|Hi Marcy! Your Creatives Closet Month Activities couldn't have come at a better time for me. We lost our home and almost everything in it during the Cedar wildfire here in S. Cal.
Just saved the photos, a few family treasures and my serger and sewing machine.
Last week I went through the closet and cleaned out the last of the donated clothing and some of the things that I knew I would never wear again.
While I have done quite a bit of sewing to replace the necessities I didn't know where to start to pull everything together or what to add.
Your four week program in the newsletter was just what I needed to get started and I wanted to thank you. I printed it out and it is taped to my closet door.
|From Helen McClean in Australia comes this interesting link to a review of my, Where Did You Get That T-Shirt?' cd-rom
|Link to read review|
|and from Mozelle King in Califorina:
Thanks! It arrived and I am finding it *fantastic*. Your method for altering the pattern after adding the armhole dart was worth the price of the CD. The techniques I know involve changing the sleeve but adding length, as you did, is far more straightforward.
Thank you so much.
|I've joined Pattern Review and love to listen in on the lively and opinionated chats. At the ASG conference, Ann Smith was one of the best dressed women---we loved seeing what she would wear each day---and checked out what she was buying too. Her review is one in this batch discussing my pant V8397.|
|Reviews of V 8397|