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Surplice Wrap T-Shirt
Two t-shirts inspired by an article on the surplice wrap t-shirt I have written for Threads. (To be published in the October issue). I wanted to design a garments using a raw edge binding and a super quick and easy double binding. The article will have all the instructions. Kwik Sew 2694 is the starting point.
Homage to the raw edge. The fabric is a coral-red rayon-lycra knit with great drape. I love the clean cut edges on plain knits. Here I stitched strips of the fabric to the t-shirt pieces before assembling the garment.
4 secret ingredients:
1) cut the strips on lengthwise grain using a 2 x 48 in metal ruler and rotary cutter with a fresh blade
2) mark the placement of the strips on the cut out piece using clo chalk,
3) use a light spray of 505 spray on the wrong side of the strip to hold it in place while sewing.
4) to keep things from stretching while sewing, place a lightweight tearaway stabilizer behind the stitching line. I used Sulky Tearaway which I cut in 1 inch strips. |
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The neck edge is finished with a raw edge strip of the self fabric. All topstitching uses a contrasting color.
4 secrets for the neck edge;
1) Staystitch 1/2 in from neck edge, which keeps it from stretching and acts as a stitching guide.
2) Cut the band 1 inch wide and trim after stitching
3) Sew with the band on top, stretching slightly as you sew, so the topstitching falls on top of or next to the staystitching
4) Using a rotary cutter, trim band to an even width after sewing, and trim garment edge slightly smaller than the band. |
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Always carry some detail onto the back and sleeves. Here the knit is tucked. press, pin in the tucks, then spray with spray adhesive. Stitch using a tearaway stabilizer on both top and bottom.....and yes, then you have to pick out the remaining bits of stabilizer.....picky picky. |
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I used a sheer polyester knit mesh for this t-shirt and cut the front and back hems on the fold so there are double layers for more coverage. The sleeve is single thickness, the sleeve cuffs are different widths and are cut with a fold at the hem. I love working on this sheer knit, takes a light hand, but it worth a bit of extra fussing. All fabrics are used with the reverse (wrong side). |
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I added a couple of silk screen images on the back to diffuse the camo effect of the fabric. The neckband is the 'right' side of the front/left sleeve fabric. Click to Buy Wings Silk Screen |
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| | Wings silk screen, available in small, medium and large sizes |
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