Mid July, 2010
Dear Sewing and Designing Friends,
|Supposedly one of the most beautiful phrases in the English language is 'summer afternoon'. That is what is happening as I write. I've set up my 'office' on the deck, loving the calm, watching hummingbirds and savoring this moment frozen in time. Last week I finished up a pattern project and sent it off to Vogue (won't hit the streets until April 2011), and celebrated by clearing and paring down the clutter in the studio and by finishing up a few unfinished summer sewing projects---see below.
The clearing and paring is happening in the ArtBarn too, check the Sale Fabrics as we make room for fall arrivals. For even though I am sewing right now for summer, I am planning for fall. Last month's linen sale continues: we have a good selection of beautiful colors, perfect for right now into early fall.
|There are some new postings added to the website. Because we get lots of calls from customers who want a bit of assistance in putting together patterns and fabrics, I've put together a page called, Pairing Pattern and Fabric so do keep checking back to see what we are doing in the studio, for feedback on what goes together and for seasonal ideas for your own sewing. This month the topic is pants. New Fabrics are posted in chronological order, bookmark this page and refer regularly for new offerings. |
|Thanks to my sister Katherine, this is now my go-to method for making a professional looking elastic waist, so do check out this tutorial on a flat smooth elastic waist posted on the Tutorials page on the website. Give it a try on your next skirt or pant with an elastic waist, I think you will love the results.
Wishing you many summer afternoons to enjoy, from my studio to yours,
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|New Marcy Vogue Patterns|
|A trio of lightly shaped pieced T-shirts. The front piecing is done with lapped seams, The chestnut and teal blue versions use a double needle to sew the seams. The gray version has lapped seams with contrast pieces of knits and mesh inserted into the seams. The chestnut and teal blue are made in ponte, the gray in a poly/lycra microfiber.
Each T uses a different neckline finish. The gray version uses a basic wraparound binding in a contrast knit. The chestnut version is a folded band which is lapped on top, stitched with a double needle and has raw edges at the neck. The teal version is adapted from ready to wear, and uses the same technique at the neck and hems. The neck is finished before the front seam is sewn. A single layer band is positioned on the WRONG side of the garment at the neck and stitched on the right side with a double needle. At the neck edge you stretch the band slightly as you sew so the neck edge will lie flat. At the hem, you sew in a 1 to 1 ratio. All instructions are in the pattern.
|Click to purchase Vogue 8671|
Part jacket, part sweater. I wanted an updated modern version of the ubiquitous fleece toss on cozy layer. Could be an outer wear layer or like a little sweater to wear indoors depending on the weight of the fabric. Both versions used a combo of lapped seams and raw edges. The floral version is a soft lofty felted wool I found in Paris. The brown/black is made in polar fleece. The collar on the polar fleece version is made from strips of the polar fleece which curls when stretched...as are the little 'dots', which are narrow strips of fleece stretched a bit and stitched in place, then clipped off. The faux 'buttons' on the polar fleece version are circles of the fleece stitched in place over large snaps, a technique I saw in Paris. You could use stable knits or wovens for this unlined and easy to sew little jacket.
I'm off next week on a buying trip and will be searching for fabrics for this great jacket.
|Llama Brown Fleece|
|Eddie Lizzard Green French Fleece|
|Charcoal Organic Cotton Denim-Look Knit|
|Click to purchase Vogue 8676|
In spite of the fact that fall is just around the corner, and my mailbox is filling up with the post 4th of July fall catalogs, summer has just arrived in full force and I am whipping up some new things to wear right now. I've been craving white and ivory, so here are a few current renditions from my design studio.
|Little summer cardigan in mesh point d'esprit.|
|Vogue 8582 in the shorter version, making the following changes:
1. Lowered the side swoop about 3 inches
2. Cut the side swoop on both sides
3. Cut down the center front to make it a cardigan, added 3" to allow for turning under and lapping. See the line drawing below for reference.
|Cream Point d'Esprit Mesh Knit|
|Worn over the t-shirt, it works as a twin set. I love it worn over black or brown tank and pants. |
|Tips on Sewing on Tulle/Mesh|
- Use the straight stitch throat plate if you have one, if not, put a piece of tape over the throat plate and stitch a sample swatch to open the hole....this will prevent the soft fabric from being sucked down into the machine.
- I use a #12/80 universal point needle
- Use long staple polyester thread---it is thinner than cotton and has some give.
- Experiment with stitch length.....I find a slightly longer stitch, a 3mm rather than 2.5mm can make stitching easier.
- Start your stitching 1/2‚Äù in from the cut edge and backstitch, holding the threads so they don‚Äôt get tangled, then stitch forward.
- Sew slowly.....if the fabric has an open weave, you will be virtually sewing through air part of the time. The machine wants somthing to grab, so going slowly keeps the threads from tangling. If tangling happens, stop immediately as it will just get worse and is easier to repair early on.
- ‚ÄòThread‚Äô your pins so they don‚Äôt fall out and place them parallel to the edge and right on the stitching line.
- No serging: the serger can add unneeded bulk, you want thin seams. I sew with a straight stitch then trim the seam allowance to 1/4‚Äù and press to one side.
- Raw edges are fine.
- For hemmed edges (and the front edge on my point d‚Äôesprit cardi), I press under 1‚Äù, then fuse the hem in place with wonder under and then stitch.
- Buttonholes ARE possible through the 2 layers that have wonder under in between, but you ALSO need to slip a piece of Totally Stable tearaway stabilizer beneath the mesh while sewing the buttonhole, then tear it away. EASY!!
|Shelley's Version of Vogue 8582.
...still a work in process, but we wanted to show this off. Love the sheer sleeves and clever neckline detailing. The fabric is double sided, so the side swoop hems will be turned to the right side.
See the links below for the fabrics Shelley used:
Pieced T using V8636. I did a video segment showing how I do the piecing on the
|Inspiration: Paris CD. It is a fun & creative challenge to combine different fabrics. I've discovered if the knit is relatively stable, you can cut stripes on an angle without any problem. I ran short of fabric, so had to do that and like the results a lot. The ivory point d'esprit cardi shown above works over this top too.|
|Click to purchase Vogue 8636|
|Check Out Our Cool Combos and T-Shirt Kits:
Putting it together for you! Marcy's selection of compatible knits and meshes.
|Link to Cool Combos and T-Shirt Kits|
|T-Shirt Kits contain enough fabric for up to large sizes. There are no instructions, how you use the fabrics is up to you---we have used our combos of these fabrics with different patterns, and save every scrap for other projects. |
|Kiwi And Cream Kit|
Summer is perfect for silk screening. I set up my supplies on the deck outside the studio and play. I learned a great tip from Maggie Bachman of Things Japanese. Combine shaving cream with textile paint, it beefs up the texture without adding more paint, is a good way to pale out a color, and smells good too!
We've put together kits for Marcy and Katherine's Vogue patterns:
|Come to Paris with Marcy this Fall
November 14 - 22, 2010
|Lets meet at the Cafe Flore and watch the world go by!|
We've booked our tickets and are going to Paris in November. Join Marcy and Katherine Tilton for a week in Paris. We'll explore the hidden nooks and crannies of the City of Light, shop for fabric, buttons and ribbon, examine Parisian fashion present and past, delve into the great museums and expand our own design horizons. I'll show you my secret places, favorite cafes, great fabric/sewing resources and latest discoveries.
|Paris Tour Information|
|New Paris Reading
The Paris section in the Books I Love page on this website has more books than any other category. Here are two new additions I am reading right now. The eat. shop Paris book is part of an exciting series. Sleekly designed and focusing exclusively on locally owned restaurants and stores, these modern city-guides are unique in both form and content. Each featured business is hand-picked by the author to represent the cr?®me de la cr?®me of cities beloved by both locals and tourists. Paris Patisseries not only has my mouth watering, but I love the inside scoop on how the exquisite pastries are created, and it is co-written by Pierre Herme, one of the most pricey patisseries in town, where I love to simply gaze at the displays. I may never actually MAKE the items, but I know how it is done.
|Design Outside the Lines
Get away from it all in the company of kindred spirits. Grow your work at Design Outside the Lines, a sewing and fiber experience presented by Diane Ericson and Marcy Tilton. This hands on workshop is a journey in discovery and creating. Through formal and informal classes and time to 'play' in the studio, you'll expand your perspectives on design, sewing, surface design and technique.
If you are a novice who wants to gain skills to make distinctive garments, an experienced professional who yearns to incorporate new material and techniques into your work, or a quilter or artist who desires different perspective or palette, you will come away with new insights into the possibilities of creative fiber.
We gather in a beautiful place and set up a working studio. Each retreat has its own special theme and flavor...no two are alike!
|Design Outside the Lines info|
|September 24-28, 2010
Mabel Dodge Luhan House, Taos, New Mexico
2 spaces available, contact Marcy for info.
2011 Taos dates to be announced
|February 6-10, 2011
La Casa de Maria, Santa Barbara, California
|May 15-19, 2011
5 Pine Lodge, Sisters, Oregon
|PENWAG TEACHING DETAILS
Marcy will be teaching at
PENWAG: PENINSULA WEARABLE ARTS GUILD, San Jose, CA
August 14, 15, 16
|August 14: Trunk Show and Details from Paris Clothes
August 15 & 16: The Arty T Workshop
The internet still seems like a marvelous toy----reminding me of the quote: 'The universe is like a child at play with colored balls.' I love the discovery of new websites, sources and blogs. Here are some of my recent discoveries and bookmarked favorites. I keep one file just for sewing related sites and another simply called COOL STUFF for things that defy categorization. Hope you have fun with these too----and pass on your favorites to me!
It is travel time, and I must confess to being a travel writing junkie, (and love to hear others packing tips) so was delighted to discover this extensive site described as an online travel resource for women of a certain age. Check it out, loads of good info for the journeys ahead.
|Gertie's Blog for Better Sewing
Gertie describes herself as 'a home seamstress in Queens, New York, with a love of all things retro. Follow me as I make all fourteen fashions from my favorite 1950s sewing book, Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing (aka VoNBBS).' But that is just the beginning. There are excellent tutorials, loads of photos and descriptions. What really put me over the top is that Gertie loves tailoring....she uses pad stitching and her hand made clothes are unique, retro and up to the minute. Love this blog, love her enthusiasm and how she shares her discoveries.
Pleat Farm is an informational and inspirational online platform ‚Äì a design pasture showcasing the latest in apparel, textiles, architecture, furniture, paper art and product design, with a focus on innovative material applications such as folding, bending and knotting. Visually beautiful blog about all things pleated, folded, tesselated from a cross media mix of artists, designers and architects. Fabric and other materials manipulated in a mind boggling array of exquisite creations.
|Made By Hand: Tutto Fatto a Mano
Blog with inside (as in inside the garment) information on tailoring written by a Canadian guy. Great info, very interesting even if you don't make tailored garments, there is something intriguing about a peek inside the finest hand made Italian suits. And much more!
|The Golden Age of Couture show in Nashville at the Frist Center for the Arts
PARIS AND LONDON 1947-1957
June 18‚ÄìSeptember 12, 2010
The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947‚Äì1957 is an exhibition that transports visitors to the most glamorous fashion houses of Paris and London in the years after WWII. This exhibition was organized by the Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) in London, which possesses one of the finest costume collections in the world. Following record breaking attendance at its launch in London and its subsequent presentations in Australia, Hong Kong and Canada, The Golden Age of Couture continues its international tour at the Frist Center, the exhibition‚Äôs only venue in the United States, before traveling to Museums Sheffield in 2011. The exhibition celebrates an important decade in fashion history that began with the launch of Christian Dior‚Äôs famous New Look in 1947 and ended with his death in 1957. The romantic postwar silhouette pioneered by Dior scandalized and delighted the public, and ushered in a period of remarkable creativity. Dior himself called it a ‚Äúgolden age‚Äù for haute couture. He and his contemporaries set a standard for impeccable workmanship and design that has rarely been surpassed since........wish I could see this one!!
|New Fabric Store in Santa Fe: Santa Fe Fabrics
I will definitely go here in September, this shop is getting rave reviews.
Location: Santa Fe Fabrics is located at 533 W. Cordova Rd., Santa Fe, NM 87505, about 1 ¬? blocks east of Trader Joe‚Äôs, in the El Mercado Shopping Center, which is the same shopping center as CVS Pharmacy. We‚Äôre right next door to Mariscos La Playa Restaurant, two doors down from The Running Hub, and directly across the street from Santa Fe Baking Company. It‚Äôs perhaps a mile or so from the Santa Fe Plaza.
Hours: 10:30 am ‚Äì 5:30 pm, Monday ‚Äì Saturday. Closed Sunday,
Contact: Email firstname.lastname@example.org. Phone 505-988-5888, or cell (505) 699-9884.
|Center for Pattern Design
Sandra Ericson has created a valuable and unique resource. Classes, products, patterns---a blend of cutting edge and vintage wisdom. The mission is to recognize the skill of pattern designing, to educate and provide research for professional development and to explore contemporary applications. Sandra says, 'We hope this leads us all over the place; there is no end to all the fascinating pattern design approaches and how they come to be. Most of all we want new generations to follow their curiosity, create new forms and learn from the best in history.' My friend Diane Ericson took a draping class with Julian Roberts last month and says it has transformed her work and the way she sees thing. I want to take his class one day too. From Vionnet to Dior, the learning opportunities are unparalleled anywhere in the world.
|The Style Saloniste Blog
Diane Dorrans Saeks is a best-selling California- based author, editor, design lecturer, and feature writer who focuses on interior design, architecture, style, gardens, travel and fashion. She is the author of 20 books on interior design, architecture, travel, and style.