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| Pants: Fabrics Updated for Fall
Pants are a necessary basic. Once the pattern is tuned to your body, the sewing is usually fast and the results very satisfying. Here are a few suggestions for pant/fabric combo from our current collection.
I keep my eye out for pant fabrics in the right weight, with good drape and in a range colors that are basics for women with different coloring. Black, of course. Brown tones. Blues. Gray. For fall, an assortment of knits and wovens. Basics for wardrobe building and travel. Denim and denim equivalents for everyday. Foolproof fabrics that drape and slim. A touch of spandex/lycra adds stretch and drape.
Here are a few suggestions for pant and fabric pairing for the coming cool weather season, with a few for warm fall days that meld into cool evenings. |
| | Vogue 8637
Designed for knits (tho you could use a stretch woven by making the seam allowances 1/4" wider in the hip/waist). This is a sleek flattering design that minimizes hips. I've cropped it 5" for warm weather and deepened the darts at the hem.
I have added a pocket to this pant that does not add bulk. Click on this link for pocket pattern and tutorial. I used Ponte and a Microfiber knit for the pants shown on the pattern envelope---make this quick and easy pant in either of these basics and you will love the chic comfort. | | |
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| | Vogue 8397
This is one of my 'go-to' pants patterns. I'd choose different fabrics for each of the 3 versions. View C, the no-side seam pant (with tucks and darts at the hem) has a slim/straight silhouette and darts to eliminate some of the fullness at the waist, so it is a good choice in linen, AND will work beautifully in soft fabrics as well. It is also very quick to sew because it is only one pattern piece. I have cut this on the crossgrain, using the selvedge turned up to the outside at the hem, and used it with a border design.
View B has slim lines too, with a side panel that could be cut on the bias or in a contrast. The tab at the hem nips in fullness and has design possibilities---you might use ribbon, or elastic or snap tape or.... And this design is a good choice for linen.
View A is one of my favorites. The pattern recommends knits, but I have used soft wovens and stretch woven fabrics. The trick for using wovens is to cut the pant with a wider side seam allowance....you can add up to 2" at the front and back side seams, then adjust the fit as you sew. I have cropped this pant for summer, shortening it 5" worked for my figure. I then nipped in the width at the hem with darts. One of my favorite summer versions of this pant is made in a soft men's shirting fabric. |
| | V 8397
View C & B | | | | | | | Asphalt Stripe Stretch Woven | | Black Pepper Tweed
Classic tweed, black dominates, has a faint vertical black stripe rendered in a contemporary blend. I'm guessing cotton/rayon with a bit of poly. Good drape and feel, not scratchy....would work for pants too. For jacket, coat, vest. I can see this combined with our Cary Grant Tweed in the same garment to give a modern twist to a classic look.
mystery blend
60" | | | | | | |
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| | V 8397
View A | | This interesting pant is flattering and slimming AND quick to sew. I took a cue from French ready to wear and use a narrow (1/2") elastic at the waist, but you can use a wider width if you prefer. It is my basic travel pant in our black and brown Parisian microfiber knit. For summer I crop it 5", then dart out the width at the hem, varying the length and width of the darts depending on the fabric. When worn, the side drape is more subtle than this photo shows, but the shaping adds a soft interest and adds length to the leg. |
| | | | | | Charcoal Gray-Brown Ponte Knit - NEW
A chameleon color that goes with black, brown and grays, you could build a wardrobe around this fabric. Subtle gray/brown/charcoal ponte, a great neutral, flattering to those with warm coloring. Slightly different on either side, you could use either one. Perfect for pants, skirts, tops and T's. Great drape, yet not too heavy and easy sewing. I used this fabric for the draped asymetrical skirt in my Vogue pattern #8637, and we used it pant V8499 for a fashion show. This is one of those great no-color colors used by Armani and Calvin Klein.
Ponte knits are designer workhorse fabrics. Defined as a stable double-knit fabric with stand-out stability and firmness that’s perfect for tops and bottoms (t-shirts, jackets, pants, skirts). Ponte fabric has a subtle matte sheen and incredible soft drape . It looks the same on both sides, with a flat weave. Super easy to sew, a great starter knit if you don't have much sewing-with-knits experience. I don't recommend any seam finish, just leave the edge raw---and I like to use the raw edge as a design detail too.
60"
62%poly/33%rayon/5%spandex | | | |
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| | | | | Brown Parisian Microfiber for Pants and T-s
People are always asking me, '....where did you get that fabric?'. I saw and bought t-shirts using this type and weight 'good' polyester fabric in Paris, and I am delighted to offer something I will be using in my own wardrobe to you. Brown poly microfiber knit perfect for , t-shirts .
I just used this fabric for a prototype for an upcoming Vogue pant pattern and it not only feels great, but is slimming too!
Saturated dark brown, matte texture, marvelous drape.
60" wide. | | | Indigo Finesse Stretch Denim
I call this Finesse because it is so drapey and refined. A more dressed denim, lighter weight, one of those slimming fabrics for pants or soft jacket/vest. Great quality from a Canadian importer. I found it in 2 colors, both dark, one blue, one black/gray.
65% cotton, 32% poly, 3%spandex
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| Vogue 8499
Hands down, this pant is the one I choose for travel. Utterly comfortable with the added bonus of deep pockets. My go-to pant for travel. This pattern runs a bit large, so you might want to use a size down. You can also adjust at the back seam---after loosing weight, my sister Katherine adjusted several pairs by nipping it in at the back seam. In a heavier fabric, I re-shape/straighten out the side seam and narrow it at the hem. I've made this pant in linen, ponte, cotton, denim and have a pair cut out in our Black Butter for Paris in November.
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| | Vogue 1034 by Sandra Betzina
Sandra's pant patterns for Vogue are worth collecting and saving. This jean styled classic with sleek flattering lines and trademark Betzina fit is no exception. | | | Teak Stretch Woven
This fabric sold out last season, so I was glad to find a small bolt from the supplier. Deep brown cotton/lycra tone on tone woven stripe. Sturdy yet elegant, an ideal fall pant or jacket fabric. Recommended for my zipper jacket Vogue 8620 or pant 8499 or 8377 (view C). Stretch runs crosswise, stripe runs lengthwise, so I'd cut on the lengthwise grain.
Cotton/Lycra
54" | | | |
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| | | | | Charcoal Stretch Denim
Soft and supple stretch cotton/lycra denim with good drape, medium weight. From the designer '7 for All Mankind', who make $200 jeans. 2 1/2 yards is the basic amount for pants or a jacket.
54" wide
cotton & lycra
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