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This month I've been sewing a capsule travel wardrobe to take to Paris, shown in the photo above. The rack keeps me focused on what to make, what to take, and most importantly, what to edit out. This will be my winter 'go-to' wardrobe for everything else as well. Starting with the gray coat and a few pieces from past seasons I sewed 2 pants, 4 T-shirt/tops, a sweater and a vest. Love the paprika as an accent, my new favorite color. The criteria is that it all layers together and will fit in a 25" suitcase. I go from Paris to Minnesota for a week so things must stand up to the rain in Paris and the cold in St. Paul. I'll post photos of the individual pieces with sewing tutorials when I return in early December. |
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What to Sew?
When the latest Vogue Pattern grouping came out, I was so inspired by the selection of interesting patterns, I decided to make the focus of this newsletter on pairings of pattern and fabric. In my studio I sometimes get boggled about what to sew, which pattern to put with which fabric, so this newsletter is designed to get you inspired with some ideas for pairing fabric and pattern.
We have a marvelous collection of fabrics this fall. I focus on basics---with a great selection of colors and weights in neutrals for pants and knit tops as this forms the backbone of most women's wardrobes. But we also have some beautiful accent fabrics for a special jacket, vest or coat.
Please take a moment to sit down and follow the links to see which patterns and fabrics AND pattern changes/adaptations I recommend for fall and winter. I will be in Paris the month of November, but the ArtBarn is full of fabric, and Shelley will be in the office to receive and process orders. She is skilled at helping you with your questions, finding pieces that work together and guiding you through your selection process.
The office phone is: 541-592-2969. Leave a message and Shelley will get back to you.
The Paris on SALE January tour is a go, and we have a few places still available if you want to join us for an inspiring fun filled four days and five nights in Paris.
Design Outside the Lines Santa Barbara retreat has places available, but is filling up fast. If you have questions or want to enroll during November, please contact Diane Ericson at 541-708-5120. You can enroll on my website at any time using Paypal. Please note that we are no longer accepting credit cards for retreat payments.
Happy designing and creating from my studio to yours,
Marcy Tilton |
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Link to the new Vogue Patterns
All the patterns recommended below are available through the Vogue website. |
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Vogue 8618
I call this easy to make little top the 'nouveau' turtleneck. It is actually more of a cowl neck with a soft flattering asymmetrical neckline....the collar is merely a rectangle, and once it is sewn in place the top is nearly done. If you sew it as-is (straight out of the envelope), the wrong side of the collar will show, but you could double the collar if your fabric does not have a 'good' back side. We did this in a lighter weight knit, double for the body, single thickness for the collar and sleeve. I made it in black and it is my 'go-to' basic black turtleneck to wear with jeans for everyday. The line and shape are slimming, the neck is soft, cozy and flattering. And it is a great background piece for combining fabrics. As you see it on the pattern envelope, the striped metallic version is cut on the crossgrain and uses the selvedge as a hem edge on the body and the sleeve....the selvedge on this fabric rolled in a very good way. The orange version uses a cotton knit that stretched at the hem, so I used a band of the lengthwise knit sewn by machine at the hem to stabilize and give a bit of weight. The striped version uses a raw edge at the hem.
No rules!! Let your fabric be your guide here, and have fun sewing and wearing. |
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| Recommended Fabrics...many of our knits would work well for this versatile little top. And, as you can see from the pattern envelope, the fabrics don't all have to be the same! Following are a few suggestions. |
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| Paprika Microfiber Knit |
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| Amaranth Viscose-Lycra Knit |
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| Tuscan Terra Cotta Fleece |
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| Midnight BLACK Imported Ponte Knit |
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| Florentine Stripe Knit |
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| Black-Silver-Gold Metallic Knit Stripe |
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Vogue 8620
A 21st century feminine interpretation of the jean jacket. Meant for stretch wovens, (though you could do it in a stable double knit), it is a versatile little toss over jacket to wear with jeans or casual skirts/pants, or you could make it in a dressier fabric for holiday. Zippers have become an important focal point, here I used the Riri imported separating zippers---great quality with a European fashion forward look. I confess, at first I was a bit intimidated by sewing in a separating zipper, and then was thrilled to figure out an easy slick way to do it. (I LOVE to do this!). Directions for easy zipper application are included in the envelope. The Riri zippers are now available on the website.
The cut and shape of this little jacket reflect what I have been seeing in Paris clothes...skims the body, nips in at the ribcage and is super flattering.
V 8618 top is great for layering under this jacket too...check out the line drawings and you will see that the shapes are compatible, and the necklines nest well together. |
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| Recommended Fabrics Stretch wovens or stable double knits are the key to success for this pattern. This is an unlined jacket, so choose a fabric that will slide on easily. Stretch denim is a natural, but you could choose a plain stretch woven or go for a stretch velvteen/cord, or a fun print. The zipper is key, I started with a selection of 22" separating zippers and chose the fabric to work with the zipper. You could take a cue from Diane Ericson who stencils zippers to blend/match the fabric. Stenciling gives a soft overlay of color. The wonderful Riri Zippers like I used also comes in white, which can be dyed or painted with Dye-Na-Flo liquid paint. |
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| RIRI ZIPPERS |
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| Oscar Charcoal Black Stretch Denim |
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| String Theory Stretch Cotton from Vera Wang |
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| Lady Jane Gray Sweat Shirt Knit from Juicy Couture |
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| Brown Paisley Stretch Woven |
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| Souris Stretch Woven |
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| Brush Stroke Stretch Woven |
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| Granite Stretch Woven |
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| Truffle Brown Stretch Woven |
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| Black Ottoman Stretch Woven |
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| Moody Blues Stretch Denim |
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| Portabello Stretch Woven Velveteen I am making the jacket in this quiet cozy fabric. The color will take me into spring, and will be a 'go-with' non-color to wear over black, brown and cream. |
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Vogue 8599
Versatile little shaped vest that slips over a t-shirt or turtle neck and under most jackets. I have a spring/summer and fall version: in Ecru silk/cotton and Black olyester crinkle matlasse. The shaping comes from a series of tiny darts in the front and back....a good idea to add to other garments. You can pipe the edges or add a ruffle or leave them plain. A great blank canvas piece to embellish or do a collage of different fabrics. |
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|  | | | | | Warm weather version uses 2 sides of the same fabric and has one long bound buttonhole. |
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| Recommended Fabrics: Stretch wovens, brocade, denim, linen, silk, or a combination of fabrics. Here are some suggestions for interpretation from our collection. |
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| Rosewood Jacquard Imported Stretch Woven |
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| Frandosa Italian Matlasse |
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| Bold Silk Taffeta Stripe |
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| River Jacquard |
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| Granite Stretch Woven |
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| Walk the Line Stretch Denim |
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| Dublin Gray Stretch Denim |
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| Portabello Stretch Woven Velveteen...and... Birchwood Taupe Stretch Woven |
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Vogue 8600
Romantic and practical unlined darted jacket with optional removable snap-out hood. Make it in a sumptuous brocade/jacquard, or a humble stretch cotton (my version), or even in a raincoating fabric for a chic rainy day cover-up. I used large sew-in snaps in the versions on the pattern envelope and snap tape on the version I made for myself. The shaping flatters and the large collar crushes to frame the face. Vest 8599 is designed to slip easily underneath, the shapes and necklines are compatible so it is a great layering combo. |
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| Recommended Fabrics: Brocade, jacquard, matalasse, stretch wovens, rainwear...you could even use a stable double knit. Fabric with a blend of crisp and soft are good choices. The front of the jacket is self lined, and if you make the optional hood, there are 3 layers with the collar and hood, so choose a fabric that can crush and layer together---this combo feels cozy on a cool day, and you can easily pull up the hood in a rainstorm. |
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| Frandosa Italian Matlasse |
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| Roundabout Woven |
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| Paris Gray Stretch Woven |
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| Roundabout Woven |
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| Walk the Line Stretch Denim |
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| Rosewood Jacquard Imported Stretch Woven |
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| Serafina Jacquard from Anna Sui |
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| River Jacquard |
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| Bold Silk Taffeta Stripe I'd cut this sumptuous fabric on the crossgrain, so the broad stripes run vertically. This would be a truly spectacular holiday jacket----a marvelous solution to the mother of the bride/groom what to wear dilemma. |
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| Aubergine Zig Zag Rainwear |
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| Platinim Grey Silk & Lycra - SALE |
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| Bronze Herringbone Velveteen from Vera Wang I'd line the front with a smooth lining so it slides on easily. |
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| Graphite Finesse Stretch Denim |
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| Indigo Finesse Stretch Denim |
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Vogue 1145
I had admired designer Lynn Mizono wearing this cozy and chic fleece coat and am delighted that she has offered this design in a new pattern. The sewing and fitting couldn't be simpler......make in your favorite color fleece. This could make quick and fabulous holiday gifts too. |
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| Recommended Fabrics: Fleece is the perfect candidate for this superb coat. Our top quality fleece collection this season comes from Patagonia. A stable double knit, like a heavy weight ponte would work well too. |
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| Red Chili Fleece |
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| Dusty Plum Fleece |
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| Merlot Fleece |
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| Lama Brown Fleece |
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| Bristol Blue Fleece |
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| Midnight BLACK Imported Ponte Knit |
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Vogue 8582
My friend Diane Ericson's mantra is, 'take one pattern and use it over and over again'. This is the one pattern I have been using over and over again for months. I love the shaping, the neckline and the sleeve, and use it as-is as well as eliminating the side drape and using it for a basic t-shirt shape. Check out the Tutorials and T-Shirt Gallery on the website to see some of my variations. As I write this newsletter, I am sewing a few pieces to take to Paris next week, and I have 3 versions of this pattern making the journey. |
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Recommended Fabrics:
This pattern will work with almost any knit. I've used poly microfiber knits, ponte, rayon/lycra, cotton/lycra and one version in a sheer tulle. Here are some suggestions from our current collection. |
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| Amaranth Viscose-Lycra Knit |
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| Norma Kamali Gray Microfiber-Lycra Matte Jersey....I just finished a tunic length version/adaptation in this fabric. |
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| Cyan Microfiber Knit |
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| Paprika Microfiber Knit |
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| Lichen Microfiber Knit |
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| Stone Gray Heather Cotton-Lycra Knit |
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| Lisa Rayon-Lycra Imported Knit |
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| Belgian Dark Chocolate Rayon-Lycra Knit |
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| Ming Stretch Velvet Knit |
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| Autumn Rust Ponte |
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Vogue 8559
I love that the shape of these little tops works in so many fabrics----AND, they make great vests---AND that they are fast to make AND easy to fit, AND they make great layering pieces over Vogue 8582, shown above. One day I had an aha moment and discovered that you can plug the sleeve from versions B/C into the tank, and Voila! a cool little t-shirt. Tweak version A by adding length to the front and back edges and you have your own version of Donna Karan's 'Cozy'.....go to her website and see all the versions including a video of ways to wear it. |
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| Recommended Fabrics: Knits of all kinds. The criteria is good drape. The poly/microfiber knits are a no-brainer, as are cotton-lycra and rayon-lycra blends. But this is a pattern that will work with some oddball/interesting sweater knits and knit gauzes too. Wool jersey (if you can find it.....this is becoming an extinct fabric). This pattern is fabulous in sheer mesh/tulle. On a whim, I made a sleeveless/vest version of view B in a brown sheer mesh/tulle and it has become a basic and seasonless piece. In warm weather it is like a little sheer jacket, in cool weather it layers under other vests and adds a bit of warmth and texture and has a distinct Parisian flair. I must whip up another version in black mesh! Here are some suggestions from our current offerings |
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| Gray Felted Wool Lace |
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| Dusk Wool Gauze Knit |
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| Heart Dot Mesh |
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| Broderie Embroidered Mesh |
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| Norma Kamali Gray Microfiber-Lycra Matte Jersey....I used this fabric in the shorter tunic version. |
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| Florentine Stripe Knit ..and...Black Gold Mesh Knit |
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| Dotty Brown Wool Imported Sweater Knit.....this one is on my cutting table now! |
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| Copperfield Sweater Knit from Juicy Couture ...and...Coppery Metallic Knit |
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Vogue 1135
WOW! Is it vintage or modern? Truly timeless and gorgeous from Ralph Chado Rucci, a modern master. You need good sewing skills and a balanced but not necessarily thin figure to wear this simple little dress. The tucks will visually slim and the asymmetrical hem makes it quietly attention-getting. Quite a masterful design, this is a pattern to own simply for the collector value. AND, it would make the perfect little black dress (or brown, or grey, or RED!!). You could play with the neck, might deepen it or make it into a V.
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| Recommended Fabrics: For knits only...the pattern says jersey, but I might use a ponte, the style would work well in a stable double knit. |
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| Midnight BLACK Imported Ponte Knit |
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| RED-RED Imported Ponte Knit |
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| Java Ponte Knit |
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| Autumn Rust Ponte Knit |
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| Charcoal Grey Ponte Knit |
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Vogue 8520
Knockout, simple little modern coat with great lines and a lot of flexibility. It can stand up to a plain or dramatic fabric, and could work in a raincoating. |
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| Recommended Fabrics: |
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| Woodgrain Wool Coating |
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| Roundabout Woven |
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| Coco |
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| Brush Stroke Stretch Woven |
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Vogue 1109
I love the finesse of this pieced knit top, think it would be a beautiful basic in a solid color with just the seaming accenting the flattering shape. (I am thinking how lovely for this season's basic black wear with everything T) I'll experiment with different seaming options, how the fabric responds will make the decision: 1: seams to the outside
2. seams sewn to the inside and topstitched
3. lapped seams
4. a combo of the above
AND... consider the many possibilities for color blocking and collage. This is a marvelous pattern, fun to make and a great wardrobe piece for an out of the ordinary T-Shirt. |
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| Recommended Fabrics: Ponte knits are a natural. Cotton/lycra, microfiber (poly)/lycra and rayon/lycra are all good choices. Stripes---YES! Double sided knits too. |
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| Florentine Stripe Knit ...this fabric is a good weight for the style, fun to play with the stripes and the back side is a good solid black. Would make a very wearable top to wear now and all through the holidays. |
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| Stone Gray Heather Cotton-Lycra KNit |
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| RED-RED Imported Ponte Knit |
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| Amaranth Viscose-Lycra Knit |
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| Norma Kamali Gray Microfiber-Lycra Matte Jersey |
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| Teal Organic Cotton-Lycra Knit |
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Vogue 8323
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Vogue 8616
Two great little knit tops from Vogue to wear with jeans or dress up and wear under a suit jacket or interpret in something dressy for the holidays. Flattering lines, great necklines are an interesting alternative to a plain t or turtleneck. I especially love the surplice wrap necklines, because they flatter so many different figures, and these two patterns give you the choice of a high or low neckline---or both. |
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| Recommended Fabrics: Your choice of knits could range from cotton/lycra to stretch velvets. I wear a knit top every day and love to have different colors and weights. I'll do a version in one of our micro fleece fabrics to keep cozy on cold days. |
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| Paprika Microfiber Knit |
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| Lady Jane Sweat Shirt Knit from Juicy Couture |
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| Tuscan Terra Cotta Fleece |
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| Cyan Microfiber Knit |
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| RED-RED Imported Ponte Knit |
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| Ming Stretch Velvet Knit |
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| Belgian Dark Chocolate Rayon-Lycra Knit |
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| Black Ponte Knit |
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Vogue 8622
One of our customers alerted me to this great little pattern. It is shown for holiday, but this is a wonderful basic season-less grouping of little tops that are easy sewing and fitting and have many uses. View C would be lovely in a sheer or lace, and I can picture the little cocoon in View A in a sweater knit or ponte or a doubled mesh or stretch velvet. The sewing is fast and the fitting easy, these are good shapes to play with for surface design and embellishment too. |
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| Recommended Fabrics: The pattern recommends woven fabrics like faille, but you could use a mesh or knit just as well. If there is a Christmas wedding in your life, this could be a cold weather coverup for a bride, bridesmaids or mother. |
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| Black Faille |
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| Quince Dot Mesh....the Root Beer Float Mesh would work too. |
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| Broderie Embroidered Mesh |
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| Bronze Herringbone Velveteen from Vera Want |
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| Bittersweet Asters Sweater Knit |
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| Copperfield Sweater Knit from Juicy Couture |
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Vogue 8627
Beautifully shaped jacket that will flatter, but still has enough ease to layer over other garments. I love the all in one sleeve and asymmetrical back shaping. The style could be interpreted in a kicked back fabric to wear with jeans or dressed up for city chic. ...and depending on the fabric, it could be lined or unlined. |
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| Recommended Fabrics: |
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| Velveteen Rabbit from Vera Wang |
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| Roundabout Woven |
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| Lady Jane Sweat Shirt Knit from Juicy Couture |
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| Midnight BLACK Imported Ponte Knit |
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| Woodgrain Wool Coating |
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Vogue 8397
Recently I've been making versions of these pants in fall fabrics. Even though I've tweaked each of the styles to fit, I still make adjustments and fit as I sew with each and every pair. Choosing the right fabric is a big factor. Adjusting the width, the amount of fullness, the depth of the crotch are all elements that make a difference in the final effect. I just finished a pair of View C in our Bruno Stretch Woven as part of my 'go-to' Paris wardrobe. See the September 09 Newsletter for how I changed the pattern. Click on MARCY'S CLOSET AND TUTORIALS on the Navigation for more information on design details I have used on this pattern by simply changing the hem edge using detailing I saw in Paris clothes.
I did a version of View A in our Nightfall Gray Stretch Woven for the Paris wardrobe too. The pattern says, 'knits only' for this version, but I add 1" to the side seams and 1" to the crotch length (just add this at the top of the waistiline), and then fit at the side seam and adjust the waistline placement as I sew. Takes a bit of tweaking, but it can be done...the stretch woven does not have the same flexibility as a knit, and every fabric is different, so I just build in extra for insurance and fit with care. |
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Vogue 8499
The pant in this pattern are cut full...this works well for some figures, (full derriere, full hip) while others (slim hips, thin legs), may want to use a smaller size or pare it down. My sister Katherine and I have done this pant over and over, and the seam placement makes it easy to adjust. Katherine just lost 25# and was able to alter her pants to fit her new figure. You can take in the back seam and or the side seam. I fit each pair I make, by adjusting at the side seam. On some fabrics I taper the width of the leg. You can add darts at the hem to narrow the width, and this can even be done after the hem is sewn up.
One of the most comfortable and chic pants in my wardrobe, I have versions in super drapey fabrics like our Ebony Flora Rayon and more crisp but still drapey fabrics like our Blue Jay Denim. This is the pant I wear to travel because of the deep pockets and utter comfort. For road trips I wear a denim pair, and this is the pant in black heavy knit I wear on the 14 hour flight to Paris, can sleep in it and arrive feeling pulled together. |
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Recommended Fabrics:
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| Blue Jay Stretch Denim |
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| Graphite Finesse Stretch Denim |
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| Oscar Charcoal Black Stretch Denim |
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| Midnight BLACK Imported Ponte Knit...this ponte knit is a bit heavier and a lovely weight and drape for pants. |
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| Nightfall Gray Wool-Viscose-Lycra Stretch Woven.....I just finished a pair of pants in this fabric, a prototype for an upcoming pattern, and the fabric is soft, cozy and fluid, dark-dark gray, the ultimate neutral. |
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| Ebony Flora Stretch Jacquard |
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| RL Stretch Denim |
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| Black Walnut Stretch Woven |
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| Bruno Stretch Woven....I just finished a version of V8397, View C in this fabric, love the look, feel and drape. |
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A Bientot! ....and off to Paris
Hope you enjoyed this newsletter, your support and feedback is deeply appreciated. |
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| Marcy |
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